A Travellerspoint blog

Last day in Mysore

tying it up

So, Monday was my very last day in Mysore. As I had a late night at Gitas eating dosas and chatting the night before, Monday turned into a bit of a 'ladies holiday', physically not a great morning to do Ashtanga, so I slept in and then went into Mysore for breakfast- pineapple juice and loads of excellent coffee. I had a rucksack full of the bargain books I bought for Yoga study and got them organized to be sent back to the UK- 10 kgs I can do without being in my rucksack as I head North... Rashinkars was late to open so I sat on the steps with an Australian woman I met and we chatted about everything- she has a theory that rickshaw drivers offer massages, not because it has ever actually happened that a woman has agreed to it, but just because, hey, you never ever know, and they'll keep trying, just to create that window of oppurtunity, and if it never happens then c'est la vie..... So I headed back to mine, mindful of power cuts, did my packing while it was still light, God knows how I managed to get everything in my rucksack but somehow I managed..... When I was at Gita's I had admired this unusual wall hanging she had- all primary colurs, robust, with a slightly strange almost masonic looking symbol on it and bells on the bottom; anyway, she took it off the wall and gave it to me- she said that if a guest admires anything she gives it to them as it is a way of practicing non-attachment. So I was delighted as its beautiful- trouble is, as it has metal on, I can't post it to the UK so its taking up a big chunk of my rucksack space.... hey ho, thats ok, its an item with a story behind it now, and I'll treasure it... And it'll mean I can't buy any more Yoga books, so tempting when they're only about a pound each...
In the afternoon I met up with Simone and her close friend Karina from Amsterdam, who's Polish and a dark blonde siren with a goddess body who's fantastic company too, and we all went to the Southern Star for the buffet lunch. It was one of the nicest afternoons of my life, amazing food, a little wine, loads of trips to the dessert table, chai, chat and tarot cards. We were there for hours, and the staff are so good natured they just left us to get on with it and even brought the desserts back out on request !!! They had this chocolate ganache flan and mocha mousse, it turned into pudding carnage...We shared stories and killed nearly 6 hours without noticing the time go. In the evening I caught up with Susan and Tracey at Rishis, and said goodbye to Rajini too, sat in Rishis for quite a while as I love listening to Susans chat- she's an actress and has some great tales. Sometimes when she talks or imitates something you can sense the artist she is, its like she has this ability to cast a veil over 'herself' and let something else in. I was really sad to say goodbye to her, and Simone too. I got a lift home on the back of Susans motorbike and got all my stuff together for Bombay sojourn... Tale of that to follow...

Posted by victoria8 08:03 Archived in India Tagged women Comments (0)

Insects and rickshaw drivers

and how to repel...

sunny 34 °C

The past couple of days have been wicked and eventful- I ran out of insect repellant and so I went around all the chemists but they only have this petrol-smelling foul greasy cream- I asked for spray but they say thats bad for you to inhale.... in Mysore which has to be the most polluted city I've ever stayed in!!! Anyway, I got creative and went to see the lovely Noor in the market and purchased citronella, lavender and eucalyptus oils, went to the chemist for a bottle of alcohol (had to reassure them I wouldn't be drinking it, they really do have some funny ideas about Western Yoga students) and did a little mixing at home, topped up my concoction with water and put it all in an spray bottle and hey presto, chemical free insect repellant that doubles up as perfume... I was so impressed with myself that I've been offering it around to everyone- if a rickshaw driver slaps his neck, I'm there, hovering with the repellant... Have been spending a lot of time with Tracey who is by origin, a 'Jersey girl' and very vocal and friendly- unfortunately this can be misinterpreted here, you have to watch it- she has now been offered two massages... from... er... rickshaw drivers...! It makes you wonder.... do they honestly think she might say yes? As in "Oh, what a good idea, that sounds relaxing, in fact why don't we stop off at mine so I can pick up my aerosol of whipped cream on the way and, oh, see if my blonde friend wants to join us?!" Has it ever happened, or do they just fantasize about it and tell each other porkies about the liberties us Western girls let them take?! I find my MP3 player a godsend to avoid those personal questions and avoid rickshaws where they have their mate driving around with them. Tracey and I had a nice afternoon on Friday, we went for a wander round town and shared a South Indian Thali at Indras, which was beautiful and I've got the eating rice with bare hands sussed too- its all about 'squashing'.
On Friday evening there was a charity fundraiser at Santoshas which was a lot of fun- there was classical Indian music, the coolest man playing the clarinet and a man whose drumming technique was awesome- I'd love to see what he'd be able to do with an Irish bodhran- it was a similar skin drum but double sided and his coordination was incredible. I was sitting next to a Swami dressed in orange and everyone was smiley and happy, there was a little toddler girl dancing around, and I sat there with my club soda and my apple crumble feeling completely content, drinking in the incense, the music and the sense of celebration. There was a charity raffle later on- T-shirts signed by Sharath ('Do Not Hurry. Sharath') and Pattabhi and Saraswati, and massages (from qualified masseurs) and so on. We sat on the roof and watched people go into a bidding frenzy, I restrained myself.
Yesterday was a good day, I did a self practice as it was saturday and my practice is so much better, the healing is really working now. .I spent some time with Simone in the morning, drinking tea in her flat. Simone's from the USA but has been living in Amsterdam for nine years- she's worked as a Macrobiotic chef and has the most amazing complexion, at 40 she looks about 28 and has an elegance about her, when I first saw her I thought she was French- I took her up on the offer of some spirulina today. She's in the same kind of place as me- things in storage, reasessing, so great to talk to, and we're going to get together and do some Tarot soon. I spent all afternoon reading- the Yoga Rahasya, Iyengar and the Yoga tradition, and what prana is actually started to make sense to me. In fact as I was having more healing on.my hamstring a lot of things clicked. I love that- when you've been reading and reading and the information suddenly assimilates. I spent a while tealking to Gita and her husband and I'm going to their house tonight for dinner and to learn some protective meditation and healing techniques which I'm really looking forward to.
Practice this morning flowed really well- except Sharath asked the girl next to me to stop and I thought he meant me so I stopped too early (just pre Kurmasana) and he came over to ask why I'd stopped- annoying. It wasn't the most focussed practice this morning- I can see that coffee doesn't really do me any favours- it seems to give the citta vrtti space hoppers to bounce around my mind on... Hey ho I'm kind of thinking I'll have one a day till Wednesday then there won't even be any available on the Ashram for a month. Feel like I'm off to the Priory. Have got study to do all day today so can't go out and have chai with my Yogi mates- its really lovely meeting people when you're not in a drinking environment, its good to shake yourself out of old habits and realize you can have fun and be entertained and entertaining without crutches, I think being able to let go of that glass of wine idea is very Yogic in terms of pattern breaking, I've actually only wanted wine once- last Sunday afternoon when all I wanted, randomly, was calamari with Pouilly Fuisse. Hmmm, maybe I'll have one beer in Mumbai on Tuesday....
The weathers getting hotter here, especially in the afternoons, I'm loving it though...

Posted by victoria8 19:52 Archived in India Tagged women Comments (0)

New People and Parties

and a pak recipe, make it, eat it, be happy cos you eat ghee......

sunny 34 °C

Yesterday practice at the Shala was great although still sore. Managed to get into kurmasana and jump back. Unfortunately I seem to always get the slot right next to the door so theres all these little pitiful Victorian orphan style faces peering in, waiting for their meagre space for practice.. I'm so lucky I get to go in at 6 when thers only 4 or 5 waiting because by the time I leave at 8 theres about 20 of them all sitting there looking frustrated, with no one catching anyones eye. Also being by the door means people bump into you which is irritating especially when you're in a balance. And the most annoying thing is the hoards of people who have finished their practice all hanging around trying to catch Sharath's eye to bow to him before leaving. I am ashamed to report muttering 'Get a life' to one of them.....we are talking 6am after all, not my most patient of times.. It makes it hard to focus. My focus is coming but it still feels like its a little wild bird I have to coax down- and sometimes it comes for a minute, hovers, and then flutters away again. Am having daily energy healing on my hamstring which is helping a little, its just that because my hips been stiff when I go into lotus because of the sore hamstring insertion sprain (quite literally a pain in the butt) the pressures been going onto my knee which now hurts. And its annoying to me because I know full well how stupid it is to do lotus if its not comfortable. The heat of the healing helps, and I love talking to Gita- she has an interesting theory that too much education is not a good thing for a man- they can't handle it and it makes them odd... I can see where she's coming from!
So this morning I stayed at home and did the Primary series minus lotus and eased into it with the Hatha Sun Salutations for a while, I did a good hour and a half practice. Afterwards I had a hot hot shower and headed to Santoshas for home made multigrain toast with hummus and got talking to a really nice guy called Robin who teaches Ashtanga in Birmingham. He agreed that the Hatha Sun salutations feel more beautiful and ritual than the Ashtanga ones when you have the flow...We ended up having a great chat about Yoga etc- he did the BWY course that I'm on too so knows what its like and was also full of information about Rishikesh where I'll be in March. We went for a walk and he showed me new places to shop, though actually I've decided not to get any more stuff. I think a few scarves and books are enough, and I went into town this afternoon to pick up some train tickets and resticted my shopping to fruit and Mysore pak as I don't know when I'm going to get sick of it... I got slightly concerned yesterday about the amount I've been consuming- out of sheer post practice hunger it has to be said- and, loathing myself for being such a control freak, went to weigh myself in the chemists and I've actually lost more weight and now I've gone from being someone who always wants to lose a couple of pounds to not being that way at all anymore, I can even see it wouldn't do me any favours. Actually maybe its more a month of just very clean living than any huge Ashtanga metabolism change. So I bought more Pak then too! Its essential to avoid that unattractive 'drawn' look. The pak is not a meal substitute though, its an addition, its like a cross between fudge and shortbread but its so full of ghee it hits the spot straight away and a square inch or two is enough, ooooh I'm going to google a recipe and try and make it in the UK.

Here it is- Recipe Description -This is a simple way of making mysore paak, a very popular south indian sweet
First off you take six measures of plain sugar and grind it to a fine powder in a dry grinder ( icing sugar wont do ). Next you add the six measures of sugar powder, 2 measures of gram flour ( besan ), one pinch of baking soda, and a little water ( very little is required, ) and make a dough of the consistency of dough for rotis. Let it rest for about 15 mts and then add 2 measures of either cooking oil, ghee ( clarified butter ) or dalda ( hydrogenated vegetable oil ) or a combination of them into the dough. Place the vessel containing the dough and oil on a stove with a very low heat ..and allow to heat with continous stirring. As the cooking progresses you will first find that the dough expands and after some time starts contracting in volume ..The dough stops bubbling and the mass starts showing the texture of mysore pak .. when this stage arrives stop the heat and pour the mass along with the oil into a sieve ( such as the one you use for seiving floor, be sure the sieve is of stainless steel, not nylon ) and allow the excess
oil to drain out into a plate for re use if necessary. Make cuts into the shapes you like with a knife and wait till the mass cools to the room temperature before separating the pieces.
EAT
When you're surrounded by Ashtangis, many of who do not follow vegetarian Yoga diets because it interferes with high protein type regimes and you have a bag of Pak, it feels a bit like you've got a bag of Angel dust... Speaking of vegetarianism I'm feeling great for eating only Veggie food with just a little dairy and loads of nuts and seeds and fruit, it really agrees with me and when you eat food thats really nourishing it satisfies you far more. I couldn't understand why the pomengranates and lemons I was buying kept drying out so quickly, I thought it was the heat, but then I realized they were natural and not sprayed to death.

Last night I went to a birthday party at the Chakra House- it was Martinas, the American girl- she's beautiful like a classical statue with glowing skin and even features and she performed a classical Indian dance which was amazing. She's so statuesque and I asked her how tall she was and she's actually six foot six, I thought she was about five eleven. We all sat around and had samosas, tea and cake and Tracey was there too. I ended up being one of the last ones there, talking to a woman named Simone for a long time about dreams, men who smoke too much and what its like to have all your stuff in storage while you step back and re-assess. I love that I keep meeting people who are on a very similar wavelength, if I was a cheesy New Age dolphin botherer I'd harp on about synchronicity but I'm not... I was talking to someone a few weeks ago and she was saying that she was here 2 years ago whilst going through a divorce and kept meeting other women who were too. I just keep meeting other women who say 'Here' when you ask them where home is because they, like me, are itinerant wanderers for now...

This afternoon I went for a long swim and, rarely for me, a sunbathe (with a big hat) and lay there for ages reading 'The Yoga Tradition' by George Feuerstein which is FANTASTIC, especially chapter 17 all about medieval mysticism and tantra. And its written in an accessible way too. It talks about how the Divine and the everyday can be a part of one another, and so many different views/ways of enlightenment, understanding. I found it very moving and got a little choked up. I was going to send it home once I've done my essay this weekend on Prana, but I think I'll take it travelling with me, it'll keep me busy on those long train journeys anyway. Going to bed early this evening as couldn't sleep last night and exhausted, and theres a taught practice at 5.45am tomorrow so I must be up. Theres a party at Santoshas tomorrow night, I've really got to like Santoshas, they serve the best carbohydrates- banana porridge, choc chip oat cookies and home made bread (turned into such a foodie recently), and theres going to be snake charmers and a buffet, I've got my ticket and I cannot wait, I want to have my photo taken with a massive huge reptile, and it'll be a good chance to spend some time with all the people I've really got to know and like this past month, I'll be sad to leave that on Tuesday. But at the same time excited to see Mumbai and the Gate of India and the beach. I had my palms read yesterday by a guy called Rao who was very sweet- he predicted travel in 3 or 4 countries would be important, success on my own terms and a new man who was educated to the same level as me and from a good family- but then all Indian palmists emphasize the 'respectability' aspect of your life. I think its because theres a lot placed on 'respectability' here. And he said a move when I returned to the UK, but then I know thats on the cars, the North is calling, even going up North in India feels so right...

Posted by victoria8 04:47 Archived in India Tagged women Comments (0)

Secret teachings

and ghee, plenty of...

sunny 36 °C

Yesterday I woke up in a state of existantial angst. The citta vrtti was bugging me SO much that the whole study and practice of Yoga felt futile. I stayed in bed for quite a while sulking and feeling frustrated, because surely by NOW I should be able to think straight and have some control over my thought patterns. But it was same old, same old... So I went out to Laxmipuram and sorted out my travel up to Nasik next week to do something constructive. A very overworked woman called Uma got it all sorted for me so thats something out the way. Then I went home and felt pissed off for a while longer. This is good though, because at home this is the point where I would normally go out to the pub but as I'm not doing that here I found a new solution. Actually it made me really happy....
I found this book called 'Nathamuni's Yoga Rahasya' which means 'The Secrets of Yoga' that was written by a Vaisnavite Saint and Yogi in the ninth century. The text was said to have been lost for many years after he died and only the record of it remained, until T Krishnamacharya received/channelled it as a young boy in Alvar Tirunagari on the banks of the river Tamrapravani. The Yoga Rahasya was said to be Krishnamacharya's greatest source of inspiration- and a hidden teaching too!!! With a long standing interest in Occultism I'm a huge fan of 'hidden teachings'. This text speaks of both Bhakti Yoga and Prapatti Yoga- which has six limbs-1) the resolution to perform only those actions that please the Lord 2)Giving up actions that distract from him 3)firm belief that the Lord will protect 4)Praising him constantly 5)Complete Surrender 6) Humility. So they have aspects in common with the eight limbs to start with, with more emphasis on conduct- I haven't finished reading the text though. It was good to look at something new and to be inspired by it, and I realized that the dejected feelings are just another form of ego and I should just get on with the practice and stop whingeing in my mind. There were some other things on my mind and I slept for a few more hours in the afternoon and dreamt that I was giving away photos I didn't want to look at anymore and felt better when I awoke. Then I went back to reading- I read more of the Tree of yoga and saw that the story from the Puranas that Iyengar used to illustrate Pranayama- of the angels and demons stirring the ocean to extract the nectar of life which they then entrusted to the highest of deities to distribute, directly relates to your practice. Once you realize something, whether its within an asana, or a meditation, and it feels like you've just jumped right over a tough stile on the way up the Sacred Mountain, you don't keep it for yourself , you offer it up and keep going and that is the surrender in the Yoga Rahasya- I think. It also speaks of suffering of one's own making- both in the body and in the mind and theres quite a beautiful analogy of the body and self being like wood- it can be burnt to ashes by oneself and wrong action/thinking, or entrusted to a sculptor to shape beautifully and this requires 'letting go'. Theres a balance in Yoga, a fine line- you need to have self discipline without being a control freak- with discipline you also have to stay receptive and this is a tightrope to tread, and I think it relates to the emphasis on symmetry within asana. Iyengar says some very interesting things on how the Surya and Chandra Nadis relate to the Sympathetic and Parasympathetic nervous systems and how symmetry in asana will fine tune us on all levels... Then I had a look at my Yoga for your Type book on Yoga and the Ayurvedic doshas and what that had to say about the 5 Pranas- Vayus. Its a great book and interesting, with good ideas on how to design a practice according to one's state- also, it makes you realize how intelligent the Primary Series in Ashtanga is- it covers everything energetically pretty much. I always think that Ashtanga is like a dance.
While I was reading I made a few notes and ate plenty of Mysore 'Pak'. Pak truly is the food of the Gods. When I go sweet shopping they always warn me which sweets have ghee in- as if I'd object! In fact I wouldn't eat them if they didn't have ghee in- its great stuff! It makes your skin glow and your bends bendier, and as for the calories, well I think its mind over matter, if you tell yourself its doing you good and do a good long practice and go for a walk in the fresh air you've nothing to fear from ghee..... It has to be said, when it comes to doing sweets and refined carbohydrates really really well, Indias up there with France with the crumbliest most melt in the mouth artistry of confectionary....
So this morning I didn't feel like practice, more like more reading, but I hauled my ass out of bed, showered and sprinted down to the Shala like a good student. Sharath asked where I was yesterday and I felt like a schoolgirl who'd skived netball- and pretended not to be ridiculously flattered he'd noticed my absence(!) I did my best to be focussed today and my practice is flowing better around the breath. Got into a good kurmasana too- I needed help though, I heard someone snigger, I looked up and Sharath was standing there and I asked him if he was laughing at me- he said Yes and I got adjusted into it, actually it was comfortable, and I realized that for nearly two years of attemping that one I've had my hands wrong. I spent an hour and a half on the practice and felt good afterwards.

Going into town today- the travel agent was so good and reasonable that I think I'm going to sort out my travel for the rest of my stay in India- as I think the Indian budget airlines work like Easyjet in that its good to book early- so I'll sort out my Rishikesh trip to- thats sort of the part I'm looking forward to the most. And I have a lot of writing on the nature of Prana to do today too...

4pm..... Got travel sorted, lots of flights and sleeper trains, should be a laugh... And went looking for 'The Yoga Tradition' by Feuerstein for my course- and found it happily- its a tome of a book so I sat by the pool reading the bits on Prana. Also had a bit of a walk on town- got talking to another of the 'artful dodger/Fagins street gang' style boys- its weird- they all have the same chat. They all seem to dislike England because they've been to Milton Keynes... randomly.... Actually Noor in the perfume stall said the same thing. And they all want to know if I've been to Glastonbury because they thought it was too expensive, at which point I tell them that in my day we didn't pay, we jumped over the fence, but back then it were all different... and then I go on about the Levellers for a bit, at which point they usually, funnily enough, remember they have to be somewhere... And I bought my daily pak supply- actually, thinking about it sensibly, to avoid fatness I now limit myself to 1-2 pieces at a time.
Then back in Gokulam I had an amazing salad, got talking to a woman my age called Martina who's had some very similar experiences to me recently, had one of those impromptu heart-to-hearts, its always good to know that whatever you're going through, it happens all the time, to all kinds of people. Cheered up by the thought of millions of other people feeling a bit shitty sometimes, I went off for some energy healing. The healing is done by a woman called Gita and her husband. They are lovely people, they both were very high up in the finance industry for years but they took early retirement to work together doing healing, for which they charge just a nominal fee, practically nothing. Thet still like to play the stock market for a laugh! And in their beautiful house theres books about telepathy etc on the sideboards alongside the childrens graduation photos, I like their style...
More power cuts tonight, its a Royal pain in the arse...

Posted by victoria8 19:54 Archived in India Tagged women Comments (1)

Sunday lunch in Mysore

RRR Restaurant

sunny 38 °C

Ended up having a fantastic evening last night with Tracey, A Yoga teacher from San Diago who's stunningly beautiful and stunningly loud - Irish Italian blood! But someone who loves to study too and we had a good night, had some dinner and then went and looked at books for a couple of hours and had a gossip about what its like travelling around on your own as a woman over here and compared notes on some of the things you encounter... I actually had some quite unpleasant harassment just outside the house where I'm staying today from some young guy on a bike, being really coarse and nasty. so I made as if I was writing down his registration number and went on about the police and he disappeared, it wasn't scary but it made me angry. Anyway, it was a good night, we found some good books and chatted to lots of people, and advised people on what to read or not- actually they were asking us as we did get quite vocal.....!
Practice this morning was good and for some reason my Uttitha Hasta Padangustasana had never been lighter. I tried to focus and made it through to Kurmasana.It also occurred to me that one of the functions of the arm balance/ jump back type moves in Ashtanga is to give your legs a break- because after a while a jump back feels like sweet respite... Afterwards, feeling good but achey I went home and relaxed with the Tree of Yoga and 3 cups of coffee. As I'm only here in Mysore for another 9 days now, the pressures on to sort out the rest of my travel arrangements. I took a rickshaw to a large travel agents to get a ticket up to Mumbai next week- and here India went Irish again, for the place was open but he couldn't go online to look at flights for me because todays 'holiday'. Quite what all the staff were doing at work then I'm not entirely sure... Anyway, I got a rough estimate of prices- very reasonable, and then I went back to Gokulam and decided that it would be good to break up the trip to the Ashram with a night in Mumbai so I booked a cheap hotel there recommended by Lonely Planet- about 17 quid for a nice room. It'll be good to explore another city, and to be next to the sea again. I really miss the sea. Then after a night there I can get a train to Nasik which is only about 200 km I think, so not too painful- then a rickshaw to the Ashram. So this week I have to finish up some coursework for my Diploma course in the UK, read lots and lots before I ship my books home, and try to get a bit of last minute sunshine, oh, and eat lots of sweets as the diet at the Ashram makes Panchakarma look indulgent. Though I'll lay off the coffee this next week so I'm not in too much shock- actually no alcohol is fine, no coffee is fine, but I may struggle with the no chocolate vibe--- or the demon that lives in me may struggle with it, either or...

Had a fabulous afternoon- went out for lunch to the RRR restaurant with Nick. What an experience! The best food I've had in Mysore- basically its a really busy and mentally crowded family restaurant- to get a table you hover next to one like a vulture waiting for the punters to finish- no lingering over cognac and cigars here, you finish eating and you're outta there.. You sit down in your precious seat that you fought hard for and the waiter lays out a big banana leaf down in front of you. Theres a choice of about 3 things- meat, fish or veg, and they just keep topping you up- poppadoms, pickles, raithas, sauces, rice, curd, ghee, curry, fried onions, you name it, and its all divine. I had some of the fieriest chilli ever. I love the way they take their condiments seriously here, maybe its my Gemini Moon but I insist on different taste sensations in every meal and having six different sauces makes perfect sense. And Nick, also having the moon in Gemini is the ideal dining companion, totally up for any kind of food experiment and able to handle a hundred changes of topic and a few Yogi impersonations within a ten minute conversation so it was a perfect lunch! There was no mucking about with cutlery either, just the right hand. I felt like the cookie monster in Sesame Street. And Nick also kindly posed as my husband when some 'village idiot' style waiter kept staring too much, although I think he was a bit simple bless him. It was beautiful and exactly what I felt like, equivalent of about 90p too. Afterwards we went for a coffee and a gossip at the Park Lane which was nice after the RRR madness. Its a lot hotter today and it was busy in town, we got harassed by little street urchins while we were buying cheap crappy rings in the street- my fingers are now an attractive shade of green.

Then- highlight of the day, we went to see some Indian Dance in the Palace where one of Vasundhara Doraswamy's top students was performing. It was magical. There were about 30-40 dancers performing, of all shapes, sizes and ages, and you could really sense how this dance has its roots in the Temple. There was an energy there that was something else- as if something was being 'drawn down' and woven. The costumes were awesome too.
Went for a walk around the Palace grounds after that and took photos of it at night, all lit up. Its beautiful. And I can see how Indian architecture reflects a different philosophy to classical Western architecture. When you see 'classical' buildings, say in London, they reflect a very rationalistic, measured and logical way of thinking- the design is based on what can be empiraically proven in a sense. With Indian buildings and art its very different- it doesn't have the same limits. Even some of the paintings in the City Art Gallery are truly spooky- there are pictures where the foreshortening goes way over and above anything I've ever seen in the Uffizzi or the Louvre. You can view a figure in a painting from different angles and see something very different from each aspect. I got shown around by one of the staff who was very informative and patient as I quizzed him about who commissioned what, where, when and why. Some of those Maharajahs were like rap stars... I love all those human details...

Posted by victoria8 06:57 Archived in India Tagged women Comments (0)

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