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and every moment anew...

sunny 42 °C

The overnight train to Delhi was pretty nice, I had a cosy bunk with a nice family. The father looked like an Indian Robert de Niro and the grandfather snored soundly, wearing one of those fleecy smurf style hats that tie under the chin that elderly men (including Pattabhi Jois) seem to favour here. I actually slept very well and then left my luggage at the train station locker room. There was a queue of people all waiting to leave luggage and it occurred to me how much I'll miss little things about India, like being ushered to the front of queues by smiling men when I start sighing and acting petulant- I could never get away with that shit at home! What will I do without the attention? How will I live without my Greek chorus? I was walking around looking for an internet cafe and this big woman came up to me demanding a donation for her school as she pinned an Indian flag on my hoodie... This came in handy because she then negotiated with a rickshaw driver to find an internet cafe for me- hey, 50 rupees instead of 200!!! But it was a cycle rickshaw and my God, that guy must have thighs of steel as he cycled uphill for a good 5 miles pointing out landmarks as he went (so I paid double as it seems so unfair they should earn less than the autos). Getting an open topped cycle rickshaw in rush hour Delhi is an experience- you have to grip and engage all your leg muscles to avoid falling into the wake of a passing buses and clench your butt really hard to avoid completely dislocating every bone in the lower back.... And once more I felt like a colonial character in a Merchant Ivory film, holding on for life and primly clutching my handbag. Fear's not even an option. Because here you have to view the traffic 'organically' and have faith all will be well. Actually, if you're walking along the same applies.
So we got to Parhaganj and happily ended up outside the Lord Krishna Hotel which I had been told about by Angel in the Ashram- they have a beautiful rooftop cafe and I had some porridge and relaxed. And the staff there are just lovely, kind and helpful. On the table next to me was a famous British actress- I think the one who was in the '60's film, 'A Taste of Honey'- I can't remember her name but she was looking great, tanned and relaxed with a handsome man....
And I checked in online for my BA flight tomorrow... It actually seemed that I had a good window seat reserved, so maybe my upgrade (courtesy of Scott) came through! Or maybe they responded to my bitchy email of complaint I sent after the flight out...
Anyway, its a beautiful day here, the sun is shining, Delhi doesn't seem as dirty and difficult as last time. I actually wish I had some more time here, to stay in Paharganj, make new friends. I'm going to have a little walk, a few conversations and then its on to the airport for the last leg of the journey...
Its been an amazing trip.. Amodini said to me the other day that I should approach life in the same way that I've travelled through India- with an open heart, an open mind, ready to try anything, talk to everyone and yet at the same time completely looking out for number one and never letting your valuables out of sight... It doesn't matter where you are at the end of the day does it? You carry your woes, fears, talents, joys, memories and love with you wherever you are, despite the change in scenery. People say going to India changes you. I don't know about that, but I've been given a space that I didn't realize I needed so badly. Its made me look at my health and not take my high energy levels for granted anymore, but to rest, to accept what I feel, let it in and then let it go. I didn't realize how very tired I was when I arrived here, or how sad. I will come back though, I will. After all this has assimilated and change is not a quick process..
The advice I would give to anyone coming to india is........ 'Bring an empty bag man........!'

THE END (just for now)

Posted by victoria8 22:06 Archived in India Tagged women

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